What followed was far better: nibbles of squid (Cornish, apparently. Who knew?) chopped with onion, tomato and romesco sauce in a light oil on toast. This dish, like the Isle of Wight tomatoes in crunchy croutons we also ordered, achieved what good chefs have yearned to every decade since Elizabeth David discovered the Mediterranean: real, intense, sunshiney flavour, and perfection in texture and, crucially, temperature (room; about 21.5C).
Investigative greed saw us share a plate of pasta with girolles and sweetcorn that was less accomplished, being more redolent of kids’ tea pimped with truffle and bay leaves. But our main course dishes were bang on theme in size and colour, neatness and precision.
My companion Tom’s salmon dish had crisp skin, flesh just right and sat on a small seat of creamy celeriac and beans in a rich tomato sauce. He liked it. Tom runs a shop famous for its food. His thumb gestures have the power of a pollice verso in the Colosseum. Chef, it’s all good.
I was similarly cheering, having been lured by a temptress ‘From the grill’. Defying those who advise one to order food out you couldn’t dream of making at home, I had the chicken and baby gem. Mind you, I don’t have a flat iron at home nor adequate skills to make butter infused with gremolata. Although I should as it’s merely parsley, lemon zest and garlic. The chicken was covered in it, gloriously, and the baby gem had added crunch, with some croutons. Cheatingly vying for my worship. Gloriously so.
With coffee and mint tea they brought a little custard tart and fruit scone. This place is good – very good – and really quite impressive value. I’d take my favourite aunt, my awesome godmother. I’d force sips of the perfect little wine list on them and we’d rebel against that flamingo pink and have a riot – and no thank-you letters, neither.
Read last week's column: William Sitwell reviews The Bear Inn, Shropshire: ‘The food is magnificent, civilisation has hope’
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